SWCP Day 7 Lizard to Coverack

Today’s lesson is you should not judge a day until it is over!

Until we stopped for lunch in the middle of the day’s walking, today was not great. It was a day that contrasted to many of the great things we’d experienced so far on the SWCP, perhaps spoiling us! The breakfast was not great and the coffee disappointing. It rained off and on all day. The path was often narrow and steep, surrounded by tall, narrow, and sharp hedges. When we poked our head out of the hedge, either the coastal view wasn’t great or it was shrouded in mist. Then, a strong wind blew us over! We stopped for mediocre coffees at a cafe with only outdoor seating, for which we were still thankful! But even with all that, a day hiking was better than not hiking! We made the most of a difficult morning, though the pictures were few.

Some typical scenery when the path popped out of the hedge. We have been spoiled on the previous days!

I liked the way this church in Church Cove was framed by its entrance.

The picturesque Cadgwith looking less appealing in the mist.

Even this deserted Kennack Sands Beach looked a bit grim.

Our stop for lunch was the turning point. After a fine sausage roll, that we had been lucky enough to keep for a couple of days since Porthleven, with a packet of our favourite crisps, we headed inland, off the coastal path. It was flatter, less windy, easier paths, and with great blackberries! Also, we have realized that we love hiking with the animals, especially when we know they make such great clotted cream!

The lunch stop that turned the tide on the day.

Easier walking. Just talk nicely to the obstacles.

This crowd chased after us, and we were glad there was a fence to hold them back.

These sheep were so similar to each other. Unfortunately, we’ve not had the opportunity to taste their meat yet!

Then we arrived in Coverack. Our B&B was the Old Post Office. It was very laid back with four bedrooms, a large communal kitchen and living room, and a fantastic view. It was right by the water, next to the high tide mark, and even our loo had a view! As a bonus, we could use their washing machine. It was so relaxing, sitting by the open window and listening to the sea. The little village was quiet and untouristy. The light was perfect for needlepointing!

The evening kept getting better. There were two places to eat in town. We chose the old lifeboat station in preference of the Paris Hotel, named after SS Paris that sank off the coast here in 1899. During the short walk to the restaurant, we spotted our landlady, Shelley, open water swimming by the harbour. At the restaurant, one of the seven inside tables was available, and we had the most amazing seafood chowder and seafood lasagne. The restaurant had just lost several staff members when they returned to university, so the couple who ran it were a bit stressed, but they did so well! It added to the authenticity of the evening. Combined with the great atmosphere at our B&B, this made Coverack our favourite village.