SWCP Day 6 Mullion to Lizard

The most prominent peninsula that we walk around on this hike is the Lizard Peninsula. It extends southwards to the UK’s most southerly point. Many look very carefully at either the peninsula, or the many rocks, and decide they can see a lizard shape, but the name has nothing to do with the reptile! The name “Lizard” is a corruption of the Cornish words Lys Ardh, which mean “high court”.

Hiking to Lizard point was today’s objective and it made for an absolutely fine day. Being able to have breakfast at 7:30 allowed an early start. For the first four miles, we saw barely another soul as we walked on moorland atop robust and severe rocky cliffs. We passed through Mullion Cove, perhaps the most classically picturesque Cornish scene we have seen, and met some cows that were not afraid of heights, which perhaps was why their clotted cream tasted so good! Amongst all this, the highlight was looking back at the sweeping headlands. We could spot where we had stayed the four previous nights: Mousehole, Marazion, Porthleven, and Polurrian. What cool names! We could even still see St Michael’s Mount!

We headed to Mullion Cove, and if you look at the photo closely, you can spot St Michael’s Mount in the distance, where we had been two days earlier!
Mullion Cove was the postcard!
We loved working out where we had been the previous four nights.
Looking back, the coastline looked rugged.
It also looked rugged looking forward.
Some non-vertiginous cows.
The same cows, chilling on the cliff top.

We stopped for lunch at Kynance Cove, which was quite busy! This busyness was relative as we’d had the path to ourselves for most of the morning. Kynance Cove had a fine rocky beach, perfect for exploring at low tide, with a convenient car park. We focused on the cafe, which served a great sandwich and Americano, and had a tap for filling my water bottle! We hung out for about an hour. I read the Salt Path, which is about a couple who walk the SWCP, and my place in the book was when they walked this section! I will withhold my thoughts on the book until I have finished reading it, which needs to be soon as my digital library loan expires in a couple of days!

Kynance Cove was perfect for our lunch break.
After hiking up from Kynance Cove after our lunch, we walked past this artist painting the beautiful scene.

As we strolled on after Kynance Cove, the Lizard Lighthouse and Lizard Village came into view. The main difference between this most southerly point, and our morning hike, was that there were a lot more people around! The contrast was pleasant, and then we headed inland off the SWCP towards the village.

Lizard Lighthouse, and more yummy clotted cream producing cows!
Janet cleverly hid the “cafe” in this sign next to the most southerly point.
Lizard Point was a bit of an anticlimax.
Lizard Lighthouse looked cool though!
Just before heading inland, we passed Housel Cove, yet another beauty!

When we were near to completing our short inland walk to the pub we were staying at, we approached a sign we could not resist. A farm shop that also had cream teas! We did not complain when we had to wait for the scones to come out of the oven, only to be surpassed by the clotted cream, which was THE best either of us had eaten. It had not traveled far!

Simple but irresistible signage.
This tasted better than it looked, and it looked very good!

On this our sixth day of walking, I think we have both found our stride. The early start helped, as did the lunch break, and another pause on some fine horizontal well-cushioned grass! Today’s mix of lone moorland walking with small crowds, made us most content. The 9.7 miles and 1500 ft of ascent left us with energy to spare. The only thing that frustrates me is how neither my blogs nor my photos capture the inherent beauty of this place, but I will continue to try!

Published by Peter Ireland

"Cajunlimeys" combines Lousiana (Janet) and Britain (Peter). British sailors in the 19th century were nicknamed "limeys" as they drank lime juice to prevent scurvy. However, while Janet is a fine cook, she has no Cajun blood, but the name fit. We love adventures and use blogging to write a photo diary to preserve our memories. Some crazy friends enjoy following us, and my notes might help others plan.

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