SWCP Day 9 Porthallow to Mawnan Smith

While our legs might be getting used to walking, I still found the place names wonderful. I had tried to picture what Mawnan Smith might look like before arriving, but did not come close, in neither a good nor bad way. Just different.

Today’s 10.7 miles and 1800 ft ascent was a fine jaunt along the coast. We could have carried on for a couple more hours, but instead, we arrived at our BnB and were OK with stopping! Today had lots of variety!

The walking was not as extreme as previous days. While we saw little sun today, the humidity dropped and the wind was a pleasant cooling breeze rather than something that knocked us over. The first section was very much a path on the coast, but it was so calm and peaceful, which befitted views including mussel beds, a roaming donkey, and Dodman Point on the horizon that we will round after four more days.

Farewell to quiet Porthallow. Our BnB is top-right of this picture.
Dodman Point on the horizon, which we will be on after four days, and farmed mussel beds in the foreground.
We enjoyed the openness of the path with wide open views and a cool breeze.
This donkey looked at us suspiciously.
Several stiles, like this one, were rock climbing exercises.
Do you see the seal on the rock? We didn’t either. We were disappointed that we hadn’t seen seals yet.
A lookout station with Falmouth in the distance, tomorrow night’s destination.
The trail had some interesting obstacles.
Dennis Head
We walked along well signposted trails in the woods.
The sign says that it’s 2.5 miles to St Anthony’s, or we can take a ferry. It was a quick decision!

We took our first of the day’s two ferries across Gillian Creek. At low tide, you can use some stepping stones and stay dry, but they were probably 15 ft underwater. At our side of the ferry route, there was a phone number to call so I did. “Hello, is the ferry running today!” “Yes it is,” a lady answered. “Great! I’m at the pick up point.” “Oh! I’ll send Will over then.” Will efficiently came and got us, shortening the day’s hike by about two miles, and adding a new dimension to the day’s adventure.

Our ferry was on its way to get us.
It was a fun, quick, and easy ride.

After the ferry, we needed to walk around a headland to the next ferry crossing. This stretch was marked by fallen trees from a storm, perhaps in January this year.

This tree had had better days.

We popped out of the woods and approached the little village of Helford. There were nautical hints and then suddenly we popped out at the ferry dock, and the ferry had just arrived! The ferryman had lived in NYC for eight years but preferred this tranquility to the corporate hustle. We understood!

These swans guarded a dinghy!
Thatched roofs and nautical hints as we entered Helford village.
Our ex-NYC ferryman efficiently took us over Helford Passage
Enjoying the ride!
On the other side, the appropriately named Ferry Boat Inn was a great place for lunch.

After lunch, the walking was similar to earlier, through open fields and intermittent woodlands. We passed Polgwidden Cove, which served as a vital secret embarkation point for 7,500 U.S. soldiers of the 29th Infantry Division during the D-Day landings in World War II, but there was no access to it from the path.

Easy joyful walking.
In the distance was the lookout point we had passed four hours earlier. It was barely a mile away, but we were not flying crows so it had taken us longer.
We passed through some cool forests.

At the appropriate point, my map told us to head inland to Mawnan Smith and we passed a farm in our way.

What does this Dad say to his daughter Bailey when passing a barn. “Hey, Bails. We saw some hay bales.” She was less excited about this than I, not least because I might have said this a few times before!

Our BnB was a little standalone self-contained building next to our hostess’s house, with very efficient use of the space for everything we needed. After several hours of rest, the 0.2 mile walk up the road to the pub for dinner manageable!

Published by Peter Ireland

"Cajunlimeys" combines Lousiana (Janet) and Britain (Peter). British sailors in the 19th century were nicknamed "limeys" as they drank lime juice to prevent scurvy. However, while Janet is a fine cook, she has no Cajun blood, but the name fit. We love adventures and use blogging to write a photo diary to preserve our memories. Some crazy friends enjoy following us, and my notes might help others plan.

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