The Thames Path Day 7: Kingston upon Thames to Barnes

I had expected this to be very similar to the previous day but it was surprisingly different. On the downside, a collapsed path by Kew Gardens forced a detour on the north bank which added a mile, making it about a 13-mile day. On the plus side, the impact of tides on the the Thames below Teddington Lock made the river different from what we’d seen, and our walking it between low tide and high tide emphasized the 15-foot tidal range as we watched lots of rowing boats whizz by.

We started the day with a fine breakfast before saying farewell to the Queen’s Head and Kingston.

The Thames Team was ready for the day!
Keesha and Eric were excited to post their postcards in this post box from George VI’s reign.

We quickly walked back to the river and enjoyed a quiet stroll along a reflecting Thames for a couple of miles before Teddington Lock.

What a beautiful morning!
A local school enjoys water sports on the river.
It felt quite rural as we approached Teddington Lock.
There were more boats closer to the lock.
We are on the right trail!

We walked past Teddington Lock. While it remained quite rural until Richmond, the tidal effect on river started to have an impact.

We passed the lock close to low tide, and on its downstream side we could see that the water level was about six inches lower than high tide.
This column marked the boundary of control of the river from the Thames Conservancy (upstream) and the Port of London Authority downstream.
This outdoor activities centre retained its water with the help of a lock gate.
As we walked downstream, we could tell the tidal range was larger from the stain on the opposite bank and the exposed mud.
A wide Thames and feeling very much in the country, with Richmond Hill in the distance.
We walked past Ham House and its estate.
Another signpost confirming we were on the right path!

After some miles feeling very rural, we approached Richmond, most noticeable with its hill and bridge. This is where my Dad grew up so it was fun thinking I was treading in his footsteps – though most things had changed in the last hundred years!

We approached Richmond.
A large building on the top of Richmond Hill, looking down on cows that I was surprised to see so close to central London.
Eric walked down these steps to highlight the tidal range. The high tide mark was this side of the white posts, maybe ten feet above the current water level.
As we walked carefully along the towpath that was a bit muddy from high tide, we spotted Richmond Bridge, which was built in the 1700s.
Colorful boats by Richmond Bridge, and right next to my planned tea break.

As we approached the coffee shop at the bridge, we noticed a changing room tent, a green room tent, and equipment. The cafe was cordoned off as they were filming an episode of Geek Girl, a Netflix series. It was fun to watch. They wanted dapper Eric to play the role of an extra but we didn’t have the time…

I had read that the path on the right bank was closed somewhere ahead, so we crossed over Richmond Bridge and enjoyed tea and cake at a cafe before continuing on the left side.

Cool views downstream towards the Richmond Railway Bridge and Twickenham Bridge.
What do you want?
We wanted tea and cake and found it!

For the next few miles, we walked on the left bank. There is an official Thames Path on this side, but the signage was spotty and it often departed from the side of the Thames. It felt like a long diversion but there were lots of interesting things to see.

The Richmond Railway Bridge was built in 1908.
Twickenham Bridge has a lock that holds the water back at low tide, but lets boats pass at high tide.
Twickenham Bridge from downstream.
We spotted where the far bank had collapsed, taking the tow path with it and closing the trail.
A peaceful river, except for the planes that went overhead every minute on their final approach to Heathrow.
How to solve the challenge of parallel parking!
A pub and an old church on the left bank, with an island between them and the main Thames channel. This might have been where Julius Caesar crossed the Thames in 54 BC.
A tributary flows into the Thames and the walls show the high tide mark.
The planes were pretty close!
The Syon park estate.
Spot the plane!
We were in the town of Brentford which was the home of the football team my Dad supported.
The trail went through some sketchy areas but only for short distances.
Back at the river, there was a wide variety of boats sitting on the mud at low tide, like this lifeboat.
A large barge.
While the moored boats looked quite junky, the blocks of flats were getting fancier.
We were happy to get to Kew Bridge, cross back over the river, and get this view upstream.
The water on this buoy showed it was flowing upstream very fast, caused by the rapidly rising tide.

Back on the right bank, the trail stuck to the old towpath alongside the river, giving us continuous riverside views.

At times, we walked in a green tunnel, but the river was right there.
We enjoyed apples that someone was giving away.
Chiswick Bridge from upstream of it.
This section of river is the end of the Oxford Cambridge Boat Race.
The Boat Race’s finish line just below Chiswick Bridge.
The tow path had flooded at the recent high tide.
Avoiding the mud!
Barnes Railway Bridge looked impressive.
Underneath Barnes Railway Bridge.
After Barnes Railway Bridge, the vibe turned distinctly suburban.
My geese were in a row again!

We saw some eights rowing, and it was particularly fun watching a pair of them race under Hammersmith Bridge. The rest of our gang was pleased as this is where we turned off the trail for a short walk to our hotel for the night – another The Bridge.

Two eights pass under Hammersmith Bridge.
A cool perspective of Hammersmith Bridge.

The day had felt like a long thirteen miles so we were glad to get to the hotel, though carrying our bags up some narrow stairs was challenging for our legs! We had a lot of fun at dinner and talked about the next day through downtown London. The weather forecast is a pretty wet day so we shall have to see how it goes though I am sure it won’t dampen our spirits.

Published by Peter Ireland

"Cajunlimeys" combines Lousiana (Janet) and England (Peter). For "limeys," check out scurvy in the English navy. We love adventures and use blogging to write a photo diary to preserve our memories. Some crazy friends enjoy following us and my notes might help others plan.

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