Greece: Athens Part 2

Summary: We returned to Athens, and visited the ancient agora and Areopagus Hill, that Paul visited, and the Acropolis.

Paul in Athens

The current size and importance of Athens does not align with Paul’s Athens, and Acts 17:16-34 describes his visit. The Bible does not include any other mention of Athens. Its military losses had reduced its political power but Rome promoted it as an educational city of learning. This encouraged intelligent discussions, and Paul eagerly arrived in this environment. We visited the two sites that Paul visited in Luke’s account of his visit.

The marketplace or agora

English translations of Acts 17:17 describes Paul visiting a “marketplace.” The Greek word is agora and it was much more than a marketplace. It was a large area that included some shops in buildings called “stoas”, but it was also where people gathered for public and social events. The Athens agora was surrounded by pagan idols and lay in the shadow of the Acropolis with its large collection of pagan temples. It was also where people were happy to have insightful philosophical and intelligent discussions. The idol worship saddened Paul (Acts 17:16) and he shared his argument about Jesus in the synagogues and the agora. The Bible mentions Epicureans, who taught materialism and individualism, as life was about self. They believed that gods existed but that they did not bother with human affairs, and that there was no after life. Acts 17:18 also mentions Stoics, who saw reason and logic as the controlling principle of the universe and life’s purpose was for an individual to find rationality in their life while recognizing that all emotions were diseases of the soul to be purged.

In the center of this photograph is the Panathanaic way. This was the “main drag” through the agora and went to the Acropolis. Today, the metro rail has been built at the northern end of the way and is close to Monastiraki Square and its metro station.
The Temple of Hephaistos, the god of fire, looks down on the agora from a hill on its western side. This is one of the best preserved Greek temples that exist.
The Acropolis with a reconstruction of the Stoa of Attalos in the foreground. In the 1950s, the American School of Classical Studies rebuilt this building as per the original, as part of a broad investigation of the agora, and the school continues to use the upper level.

Unfortunately, on this visit to the agora, it was closed. Fortunately, we had visited the agora at the beginning of our trip, and I described our visit in this blog post with more details about the agora.

Monastiraki metro station below ground level. Monastiraki Square by the station was like an ancient “agora” with many people hustling and bustling, from fruit sellers to commuters, and many people just hanging out.
As we walked along a street, we smelt the local fish market, known in contemporary Greek as an agora.
I liked this sign for the fish market.

The Areopagus

Acts 17:18 explains that the Epicureans and Stoics did not agree with Paul’s teachings. English translations say that they described him as a foolish babbler. The Greek literally means a seed-picker, referring to a bird like a pigeon that randomly pecks at seeds, as a babbler might gather or share information. Acts 17:19 says that they “took” Paul and “brought” him to the Areopagus, which might have been an invitation or by force. The Areopagus likely refers to an advisory council of Athens that met on or by Areopagus hill, called Mars in Latin. The hill is rugged and rocky, so it seems more likely that the council met at its base rather than on top. It is located between the agora and the Acropolis, overlooking the agora.

Looking up at Areopagus hill from the agora. The tourists on the top make great silhouettes!
Earlier in the day, we visited Areopagus hill. The plaque is the text from Acts 17:22-32.
A close up of the inscription. It was in Greek.
I could translate the citation at the bottom of the inscription: Acts of the Apostles 17:22-32.
It was very slippery on top of Areopagus hill, but Chad and I managed to grab a selfie on the top with the Acropolis in the background.
We passed this square close to our hotel with the full moon shining down.
These pigeons in the square were more interested in sleeping than “seed picking.”

The Acropolis

Our guided visit to Athens focused on the Acropolis. The word means high (acro) city (polis) and it refers to the area at the top of the rock, not any particular building. It is the primary site for visitors, though it is not mentioned in the Bible. It is part of the historical background of Athens, and provides great views! My guidebook identified twenty-one significant sites to visit and trying to visit all in depth would be quite an undertaking. I won’t try to do that here! There remains some impressive architecture, but there are a lot of rocks!

The largest temple is the Parthenon, commissioned by Pericles to celebrate the defeat of the Persians in 447 BC. It was part of a building campaign to show that Athens was the greatest city. It houses a grand statue of the goddess Athena. The temple survived quite well over the centuries of occupation until 1687, even though it was converted into a mosque in 1456. When the Turks were defending the city from a siege by the Venetian army, they stored their explosives in the Parthenon. A mortar hit the Parthenon, triggering a massive explosion, with the expected destruction. Since then, it has suffered from souvenir hunters of all types. One example is in 1801, when Lord Elgin got permission from the Ottomans to take some beautiful large statues back to London. The “Elgin Marbles” in the British Museum remains a delicate and sensitive subject between UK and Greece, with the latter striving to get their antiquities returned.

A large poster on the approach to the Acropolis Museum, appealing for artifacts to be returned from foreign lands.
The Parthenon towered above us. A major renovation project is underway, though various projects have been renovating it over the last fifty years.
We had to get our posed photo.
It was crowded, but no where near as crowded as in the summer during the high season.
Maryanne, our guide, pointed out the curve on the base. Such a technique is used in modern construction to keep the material in compression, when it is strong, rather than tension, which leads to cracks.

One of the other impressive temples that remain is the temple to Athena Nike. it is visible from many different angles.

Another temple is Erechtheion:

There were also the remains of a theatre and an Odeon, which was a covered theatre and puts on performances today.

The front seats were for important people; the wall was to protect them when gladiators fought lions, which was Roman not Greek.
The Odeon. The roof collapsed a long time ago.
A painting of what the theatre would have looked like at its prime.
Arches for shops under the main walkway.
You can see the urban expansion encroaching up the hills.
We could see Piraeus in the distance.
The Greek flag flies very proudly from the Acropolis. It has nine stripes which are said to represent the nine syllables that make up “freedom or death” in Greek. In 1943, when the Nazi invaders ordered the Greek soldier who guarded the flag to take it down, he complied, then wrapped himself in the flag and threw himself off the cliff. A couple of months later, a pair of teenagers climbed up and replaced the Nazi flag with a Greek one. It reminds the Greeks of their freedom.
From the Acropolis, there is a great view of Lycabettus Hill, the highest place in Athens. On the other side of this hill is the quarry where the marble for the Parthenon comes from.
We ate lunch near the entrance to the Acropolis. The gyros were 4x the price of the ones we had in Litochoro, but not as tasty!
A nice view on the way down.

Part of the fun of visiting Athens was wandering along the backstreets as we walked around Athens. After dinner at the hotel, we had a short visit with a couple of representatives from a local ministry, One Collective.

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Published by Peter Ireland

"Cajunlimeys" combines Lousiana (Janet) and England (Peter). For "limeys," check out scurvy in the English navy. We love adventures and use blogging to write a photo diary to preserve our memories. Some crazy friends enjoy following us and my notes might help others plan.

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