The Chisos Mountains in June 2021

Samuel very much wanted to share his backpacking adventures with a couple of his buddies. Trying to squeeze a trip in after school and COVID and with summer coming was challenging but we decided early June would work. We were thinking that if we stayed in the mountains, it would be cool enough. Also, if we took it easy, it would not be too hard on his buddies who were new to backpacking. The original plan was four nights in the Chisos and one night up Guadalupe Peak. This was primarily Samuel’s trip and I tagged along for the ride.

We underestimated how hot it would be and a few other parts of the plan compounded it. (Our climb of Guadalupe Peak in June 2015 had been freezing cold, so the weather changes!) As the buddies were new to backpacking, they were borrowing equipment which was less comfortable and increased psychological concerns. With uncertainty about water in the Chisos, we chose to carry all that we would need leading to each pack being 40 lbs. Finally, we chose to hike into a campsite on the first night after the 10-hour drive, so it was in the heat of the day and a negative from the start.

A couple of things on the first day compounded it further. First, realizing it was hot, I suggested everyone chug some water before leaving the car park. If someone is not used to this, it does not get absorbed into their stomach, and one of the buddies later threw up what they had chugged. Second, as we were approaching our campsite, a baby and momma black bear were playing right next to the path. While this was an amazing sight, one of the buddies was terrified and did not sleep that night in fear the bear would come into his tent! Finally, when we got onto the Chisos plateau on the second day, the recent forest fire had destroyed much of the shade and heat-absorbing vegetation which added to the heat.

After two nights, we decided to head home after one more night, which lifted everyone’s spirits. We realized this had been too much too soon for new backpackers, especially when misjudging the heat.

Day 1	Drive from Houston, hike into Pinnacles	Camp PI2
Day 2	Hike up onto the Chisos plateau and Emory Peak	Camp BC1
Day 3	Hike Northeast Rim	Camp ER4
Day 4	Hike out and drive back to Houston	Home!

What we actually did instead of our 6-day plan.

What happened:

I’m sure Samuel was trying to persuade his buddies that it would be better to take more than just pop tarts for food!

So far, so good. We made it to the park entrance after the long drive from Houston.

We had a bit of time to kill so we checked out the park’s Fossil Discovery Exhibit. They are all happy so far!

After picking up our permits, we were at the trailhead ready to hike in. It is already too hot and we are starting after a long drive which itself is dehydrating.

It didn’t take long for the packs to become too heavy for the newcomers. At first, Samuel was OK carrying the extra water, probably putting his total load at sixty pounds.

Close to the trail and just a few hundred yards from our campsite, we spotted this baby bear. Where is momma? We did not want to disturb them.

The baby climbed down from the tree to its mother. It was as if the bears were beckoning us to come and play with them. We did not leave the path and quickly moved on. It was a very cool sighting, though was scary for first time backpackers.

This rock by the campsite had great views and the crew welcomed a lie down.

Pinnacles 2 campsite. I was happy to see the bear boxes!

We had a restless night and did not sleep well, so we did not start very early the following morning. Indeed, the challenge of the heat on the first day left a lasting impression and knock-on effect.

The crew after climbing up onto the Chisos plateau. Guess who carried all the water!

After some rest, I persuaded them to smile for the camera.
It was overcast and not too hot, but that did not last long.

The fire had come all the way to the edge of the Chisos plateau. Fortunately, the vault toilet at this location survived.

You could see where the fire had burned the mountainside.

These scarlet bouvardia survived the fire. One advantage of coming in June was that the vegetation was quite different from previous visits.

Some simple daisies but still beautiful in the Chisos environment.

Boot Canyon 1 campsite. We welcomed the shade!

Time for some relaxation before heading up to the peak for sunset.

The fire had come close to the Boot Canyon campsites but had not reached them.

In the canyon below the campsites, we found this log that was still smoldering from the forest fire. I didn’t know what to do as we did not have spare water, so I just left it. It felt wrong to leave a smoldering log!

Heading up to Emory Peak, the trail was very exposed. I don’t remember it being so exposed, but I’m unsure whether that is because the fire changed it, or because my previous trips have been when it was cooler.

Evidence of fire on one side of the trail just below Emory Peak. It seemed like the trail had acted as a fire break.

It took some persuasion and help to get everyone up the final scramble to the peak, but everyone was glad when there were there together.

The peak is a cool place to chill and I love this view!

There was a large gathering of ladybugs at the peak. We had seen something similar on Guadalupe Peak but not before in the Chisos.

Two of us headed down before the others as we were worried about getting down in the dark.

We had a better night’s sleep that night so we started the next day refreshed. It started well with some experimental water filtering. However, the trail up to the Northeast ridge was completely exposed to the sun after the fire and seemed much harder than when we had previously done it. It was a real struggle to make it up to the rim. We were very thankful to make it all the way to ER4 campsite.

We tried using the lifestraw straight out of a puddle. For future reference, you can fill a cup which makes it easier!
While Boot Spring was not running, there were plenty of puddles in the canyon above it, by the path.

As we climbed up to the Northeast rim, the impact of the fire was clear and we missed the shade as we overheated!

It’s fascinating what survives the fire. I look forward to returning to see how the landscape has recovered after several years.

Happy campers at ER4 campsite. Not only were they happy that we had reached the campsite, but we had also decided that it would be best to head home the following day. The heat was just too much!

ER4 is right next to some cliffs on the Northeast rim that offer tremendous views into and over Juniper Canyon.

With a bit of bushwhacking, we were able to make it to these rocks which is where the Northeast Rim meets the South Rim. We could also pick up a bit of cellphone service. It became our main hangout spot, watching the sunset and sunrise.

I had picked up some water from the puddles and used this setup to filter the water by gravity rather than squeezing through my Sawyer squeeze. It worked OK but it is a bit awkward.

These rocks were the perfect location for our evening hot chocolates.

Knowing that we would soon be going home and removing the burden of extra hiking and camping in the heat, the spirits lifted and we slept well. This allowed us all to get up before dawn and enjoy the sunrise before hiking out.