Southern Cotswold Way: Day 0

Our England adventures with the Sems and Townsends start with hiking the southern half of the Cotswold Way. Before starting a hike, there is always getting to the start, and that was this day. The travel was as uneventful as anyone could wish for. We did a short warm up hike to blow off some jet lag cobwebs and explored the pretty little market town of Painswick.

The trip started by meeting up at IAH airport in Houston.

Let’s get this adventure started!

Tracy wanted some video recorded for a creative reel she is making about the trip, though watching Dean and the girls make this clip was the best entertainment of the day.

It was exciting to be on the plane.

However, the 9 hour flight gets long, and this photo better captures how we felt…

The flight was smooth, as was our arrival and transfer by taxi (by Andy Cars of Gloucester) to St. Michael’s B&B in Painswick. We arrived too early to check in but we could leave our bags and explore. After a fine lunch of bacon buns, a cream tea, a panini, a homemade quiche, and a slice of cake at the town’s Arts Cafe, we were ready for a warmup hike. I chose a route along the Cotswold Way, going north in the opposite direction to the way tomorrow will take us. It took us up a hill through a golf course to a great viewpoint: Painswick Beacon.

Following our footpath, we crossed one of the golf course’s fairways when no one was playing. We were glad the trail was not muddy but could feel our tiredness from the flight.
Dean celebrates arriving at Painswick Beacon in front of a backdrop of Gloucester.
We all enjoyed the view, and some rest, at the top. Below the top are earth banks from a hill fort that dates from 400 BC. It’s been surrounded by a golf course since 1891.

There were many pretty flowers blooming along the trail but I only photographed one today:

A Verbascum thapsus, also known as Great Mullein

After the walk and some refreshments from a small grocery store in town, we checked out Painswick’s St. Mary’s church. Evidence in the Doomsday Book from 1086 AD suggests there was a church here at that time, with the current St. Peter’s chapel dating to 1377 and the spire to 1632. The church grounds had 99 well-groomed yew trees with a legend that the devil prevented the 100th.

The church spire and some of the 99 yew trees.
Inside the church which remains active.

As we rested in the shade of the Lychgate, a passerby quickly explained its significance. When the church’s bell tower was struck by lightning in the late 19th century, it became too weak. The tower was replaced with a stronger structure and the old tower used as an entrance to the church courtyard.

The Lychgate and St. Mary’s “new” bell tower.
The detailed carving showed bells with ER VII indicating Edward 7th (Queen Victoria’s eldest son) was king at the time of the project which was in 1902

We created other photo worthy moments as we wandered around town, waiting to check in to our B&B

I forget how different these narrow lanes are to roads in Texas
The girls had to take the phone box photo. While most phones have been replaced by defibrillators, this was still had a working phone, suggesting the town has a poor cellphone signal.
These old stocks were next to the church yard. Ask Dean what he did to deserve this…
An apt name for an art gallery in what I assume used to be the men’s loo!
The view from our bedroom window after we’d checked in. Our rooms had quirky themes from India to Art Deco. We very much enjoyed the homemade biscuits provided with the tea and coffee in our room.

After a couple of restful hours, we went downstairs for dinner. The B&B had a bistro attached. While there are often several eating options in the towns we stay in, we generally eat where we stay if possible as it is easier when we are tired. This time, we were not disappointed. Our main courses included lasagne, cod, medallions, chateaubriand, duck, and stroganoff, with fine deserts of sticky toffee pudding, banoffee pie, and bread and butter pudding. The only thing left on our plates were my courgettes, also known as zucchini, but they are dodgy veggies whatever you call them.

We discussed tomorrow’s plan over dinner and were sure we’d be ready after an eagerly awaited good night’s sleep.

Our bedroom is upstairs on the left and the Sems’s is on the right. Our table for dinner was under our bedroom. The only staff in the restaurant were the couple who ran it, Marin and Catalina. It’s extra cool when the chef brings you his great creations.
The view from our bedroom window shows it is still light at 9 pm. Our air conditioning is to open the window, but it is a cool night and it’s a quiet village – except for the church bells that ring every 15 minutes…

Published by Peter Ireland

"Cajunlimeys" combines Lousiana (Janet) and England (Peter). For "limeys," check out scurvy in the English navy. We love adventures and use blogging to write a photo diary to preserve our memories. Some crazy friends enjoy following us and my notes might help others plan.

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