Italy Day 2: Path of the Gods and Positano

Each of us did our favorite activities today. Janet and Peter hiked the Path of the Gods, a trail that hugs the cliffs as it winds along the Amalfi coast for a few miles. Bailey and Jett had a photo session with a local photographer using multiple outfits, locations, and early morning light to capture the best pictures.

It takes a special activity to get Bailey up at 3:30! Their 5am taxi whisked them off to Positano along quiet streets and they loved the sleeping town in the soft morning light. They had a great photo session, sharing one sight with a video shoot of Maleo, the son of Andrea Bocelli the famous Italian tenor, which made Jett’s day. Bailey and Jett celebrated the shoot’s completion with a fine breakfast. Unfortunately we have to wait up to three weeks before they get their fantastic photos so I will update this post later.

Peter and Janet had a later start to catch a 9:30 ferry. The 1.5 mile walk to the port took them through a bustling early-morning Sorrento, catching a few sites on the way before walking down some steps to the port and enjoying a fine breakfast overlooking the harbor. There were to be many more steps today!

We were surprised by the long queue to get on our ferry, and even more so when we saw how small the boat was. A pair of obvious tourists misunderstood the queue and tried to cut in line when boarding and were quickly and passionately corrected by some queueing Italians which was entertaining. We found a seat but moved to stand on the crowded top deck for the view during our journey’s first leg to Positano. We were glad for smooth water and I dreaded to think what would have happened if the boat sunk. On arrival at Positano, Bailey and Jett joined us for onward travel to Amalfi.

On the leg to Amalfi, we chatted to a couple that we shared a bench with and soon realized he (David Meeh) had worked for Schlumberger for 33 years, and one of my bosses (Jim Aivalis) had been his trainee. The similarities in our work and life experiences were stunning. What a small world!! We disembarked at Amalfi where Bailey and Jett enjoyed the town while Janet and Peter took a taxi to Bomerano to start their hike back to Positano. We’d tried to get a bus, but gave up after a passionate dismissal from a local that they weren’t until the middle of the day and a timetable suggested there wasn’t one for at least another hour. After the windy climb up over 2,000 ft, we were very happy for the taxi, especially when our driver suggested we had to get mozzarella and tomato sandwiches as the local Agerola mozzarella is the best!

The main Path of the Gods (Il Sentiero degli Dei) is 3.5 miles to Nocelle though continuing to Positano makes it 4.7 miles. While there is less than 800 ft of climbing, the descent of over 2,500 ft is amplified by nearly 2,000 stone steps below Nocelle. The views from the cliff were stunning, punctuated by forest walks. Photos do not do it justice but I will try with some collages.

The path was mostly very well signposted. As usual, there were a couple of places at forks where the direction was not immediately obvious but we quickly worked out the way.
The trail varied tremendously, from hugging the cliff with or without a barrier to pleasant paths through forest. We were in the clouds at the beginning. It was steep in parts but mostly just rocky which made the hike to Nocelle a long 3.5 miles.
There were plenty of wild and cultivated flowers along the trail. Many were flowers we have tried and failed to grow in Houston, just like citrus. This emphasizes the area’s kind climate and fertile soils. Though our lack of green thumbs is another factor…
We enjoyed some animals. The goat had had his horns cut off and we could hear their bells across the valley. We heard the donkey eeyoring right next to where we were grabbing a drink in Nocelle. There were many lizards and every time Janet noticed one out of the corner of her eye, she greeted it with glee as it wasn’t a snake! I caught one enjoying the view of Positano.
The highlight of the walk was the views toward the sea of terraced agriculture and the town’s. Our trail passes high above Praiano, with some near-vertical views of the road and houses below. The views of Positano as we approached our destination were stunning. It made us want to walk England’s Southwest Coastal Path or Wales’s Pembrokeshire coast.
We enjoyed lemon and orange granitas (like slushes) in a small cafe in Nocelle with amazing views of Praiano through a cactus garden.
After refreshments in Nocelle, we felt ready for the stairs. The first thousand weren’t too bad, but then the whole lower body started aching! Our legs shook when we stopped! Down and down we went. Close to the bottom, we met one couple starting their ascent and struggling, so I was glad we were going down. I named this the Positano Descent, echoing Colorado’s Manitou Incline of 2,768 steps. we were very happy when we walked into Positano!
While the arrival in Positano was respite from stairs, the streets were still steep but also crowded. Bailey and Jett had so much preferred the earlier vibe at dawn when it was deserted!
We made our way to the restaurant we had reserved for dinner, but it was more climbing, often along very narrow alleys. We enjoyed sitting at a table right next to the road which was fortunately not too busy with cars buts lots of people walked past. The head waiter was an entertainer trying to entice customers. We enjoyed lemon cake to round off the meal and welcomed our pre booked taxi to take us back to Sorrento.
The end of a fine day.

Day two was over! It had been another full day and we had made the most of it. Janet and Peter loved their walk though the legs are still hurting a day later. Bailey and Jett had a great photo session with such a beautiful backdrop. I feared everyone’s energy would run out so a good night’s sleep was the priority!

Published by Peter Ireland

"Cajunlimeys" combines Lousiana (Janet) and England (Peter). For "limeys," check out scurvy in the English navy. We love adventures and use blogging to write a photo diary to preserve our memories. Some crazy friends enjoy following us and my notes might help others plan.

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