HWP Day 8: Carlisle to Bowness-on-Solway

Posted byPeter IrelandPosted inHadrian's WallTags:, , , , ,

Today was the final leg of our trek across England following Hadrian’s Wall. It did not disappoint, remaining consistent with some of the highlights from previous days while adding a few fun and interesting variations. At 16.7 miles, it was our longest day and it hurt less than others, suggesting we found our trail legs, though I am tremendously thankful to be writing this while horizontal on my bed!

We headed out early at 8am and into the flow of kids going to school. They seemed more upbeat than the kids we saw in Newcastle, perhaps more innocent.

On our way back to the path from our B&B, we took the pedestrian tunnels under the roundabout on the A7. The inside space is very cool.
This crow was huge and giving us the oddest look.
Our disappointment was the lack of visibility of the castle and cathedral from the trail. I had falsely assumed we would be able to see them from the river, but all we could see was this tower, and I don’t even know what it’s part of. If I’d known, we would have walked past them in the way to the path.
The sides of the path were filled with Policeman’s Helmets which deserve another picture.
Some lady’s gloves that I don’t recall seeing before. I also saw one foxglove.
Some cool mushrooms too.
The River Eden was very pretty.
I enjoyed watching this heron look for his next meal in the rapids. They do the same in Houston’s Buffalo Bayou!
I felt that this tunnel under the A689 was the boundary of Carlisle. Previous photos in the HWP Facebook group had shown it full of water so I was very glad that it was dry! After this, the sounds of the city diminished as we headed deep into the countryside.

As we headed away from Carlisle and toward Bowness, it felt like it was a completely different walk. First, while there was little evidence of the wall, there were some interesting nuggets.

In St Michael’s Church in Burgh-by-Sands, the 12th Century tower shows evidence that it was made with stones salvaged from the wall. We arrived at the church just as a rainstorm started so it was a perfect time to visit. We were warmly welcomed inside.
The vallum is close. Or so the map says that it used to be!
This section looked a bit like a ditch, but I think it looked more like the remnants of the canal. However, if I was building a canal and there was already a big ditch in place, I know where I would put the canal!
While not Roman history, Edward I died in Burgh-by-Sands in 1307.
The canal, railway, and Port Carlisle have a fascinating history, and so little evidence of the canal or railway remain.
Part of the old harbour at Port Carlisle.
As we approach Bowness, we can see the remains of the railway bridge that crossed between Bowness and Scotland over the Eden.

There is plenty of signage in this section.

Our path joined the English Coastal Path, and they both use the acorn symbol. We did not share the path long, which was surprising as we followed the coast!
Acorns!
We need to look at walking the Cumbria coastal way, perhaps combined with the Cumbria Way to make a loop. However, we did not see many signs.
This is when I was so thankful I was not trying to ride along Hadrian’s Cycleway without a map. Let’s go left, right, AND straight on!
This sign summarizes the day: Carlisle to Bowness.

We had our Bovine encounters.

Yep, this was a bull. One of many in a field and they were hanging out where the path exited the field.
There was an alternate route along a road, but it was through these creatures who did not look eager to let us pass. There was not any other alternative.
Janet strolled confidently to the stile, and I followed! The bulls were not bothered!
This cow had a special color.
We were worried more rain was coming, but decided they were just having their after-lunch rest.

There were also several opportunities for refreshments on the way. With so many ripe blackberries, and an apple tree leaning over the path with some tasty fruit, we did not need any of the refreshments but they were still fun to see.

A drinks fridge in Grinsdale.
A coffee van in Beaumont
This Methodist Church in Port Carlisle had refreshments and shelter.
We loved the inside of the church.

The walk was simply pleasant with some long distance views as we enjoyed the changing conditions and could sense we were approaching the end.

A Union Jack in Beaumont flies in front of some Scottish wind turbines.
I spotted this red admiral butterfly (when I was looking for blackberries).
There are long sections of straight road that are liable to flooding at high tide, which would make these stretches more interesting!
The foreshore is open grazing.
Looking inland, we could see the Lakeland fells.
It is amazing how far the tide goes out. The rapid movement of so much water made navigation very difficult and contributed to the demise of Port Carlisle and the damage to the railway bridge.
On entering Bowness
Yay!
We finished with the traditional photo at the end of the HWP.
I prefer this angle, highlighting that you have a view across the Solway.
And we made it to our B&B!

We arrived at about 3pm which gave us time for warming showers and some relaxation. We headed to the pub next door for dinner.

The Kings Arms has a large dining room. We were early but this would fill up with walkers, either starting or finishing the HWP.
Fine traditional pub grub of scampi and lasagne. Just what we needed after walking over 16 miles. We also had a sticky toffee pudding and hot custard at the Solway Lounge.
And that wrapped up the day. We have no problem going to bed early.
We spotted the preparers of tomorrow’s breakfast eggs, but I hope they don’t have a cockerel!

Tomorrow, our friends Mark and Sarah (thanks!!) Will pick us up and we get to stay with them for a few days in the South Lakes before heading home.

It’s a bit too early to reflect on the walk. I know we have had a lot of fun, stayed at great places, eaten fabulous food, and learnt lots about the northern edge of the Roman Empire. I’m happy to report that the Cajunlimeys are unscathed and ready for our next adventure.

This blog post is linked to from my Hadrian’s Wall Path page, where you can find the accounts of the other days in this adventure.

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Published by Peter Ireland

"Cajunlimeys" combines Lousiana (Janet) and England (Peter). For "limeys," check out scurvy in the English navy. We love adventures and use blogging to write a photo diary to preserve our memories. Some crazy friends enjoy following us and my notes might help others plan.

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