The Cotswold Way Day 4: Cleeve Hill to Shurdington

Neither our starting or ending points were on the Cotswold Way today, which reflects the logistical challenge. My gratitude for the feedback I get from y’all, either in Facebook or in the blog itself, is reflected by my writing this. As today was over 15 miles, I’d certainly prefer to be napping. Hearing Janet’s snoring makes me sleepy when it’s only 4pm. But knowing I have expectant readers obligates me to write!

With some challenges getting both to and from the route today, because of where the route is and amplified by it being a Bank Holiday (with reduced bus services like Sunday), we’d considered doing something further south around train stations. Again, the flexibility made a choice more difficult, so we just kept it simple and started close to where we had finished yesterday. We had left the Cotswold Way at the top of a cliff, so driving to that spot wasn’t an option. We found the Cleeve Hill Common Car Park not far from either the cliff or Belas Knap. It is right next to the three large antennas you often see, which worked out to be a great starting point. We prebooked a taxi for a 7am start and Starline Taxis were again very efficient. It took some effort to explain to the driver where we wanted to go but we made it by 7:30.

The radio towers was a very cool place to start the day.

There was early morning low cloud which intermittently surrounded us. Perhaps the lack of view helped us see other smaller things. Soon the cloud lifted and the tremendous views opened up again as we hiked along the edge of the escarpment.

These bushes were covered in snails.
These blackberries were too perfectly ripe to avoid becoming a second breakfast.
Some huge thistles
Being on the top of the hill, we could look eastward toward the sunrise. While there was less low cloud, there was still cloud.
On the west side, the cloud was starting to lift.
Yay! We could see Cheltenham again, and what a view it was.

We rejoined the Cotswold Way and continued toward Dowdeswell Reservoir, which unfortunately we couldn’t see, but it has an impressive overflow (which unfortunately I didn’t photograph.) Crossing the A40 wasn’t too bad and I expect it would be quite hairy on a regular weekday as the crossing point is on a bend. We then climbed up through some Woodland Trust woods which were very nice, and then continued on to Seven Sisters.

This was a cool-looking copse.
We rejoined the Cotswold Way, though the sign looked a bit tired.
As we had approached these interesting rabbit ears, we had heard a strange noise from the other side of a thick hedge. It sounded like running water, but there was no river. Then, we saw the electricity pylons and realized it was them. We followed them for several miles.
We are not sure whether the steps make the hills easier or more difficult. Their primary purpose might be for erosion control anyway.
We climbed back up to the escarpment and the fine view of Cheltenham returned, accompanied by the power line buzzing
As we approached Seven Springs, we realized we could see across the valley to Leckampton Hill, where we were going. We could tell it would also have a fine view of Cheltenham, if the weather held.

As we headed down to Seven Springs, we knew there would be a climb, but the prelude of the view encouraged us. We made it to the top and enjoyed our lunch while sitting on a well placed seat. The rain continued to come and go, with some wind. Janet was feeling the cold so we had to keep moving.

As we climbed, we started to feel a bit sluggish. Then we saw why!
We were reminded to stop worrying about finding a bus back to Cheltenham.
Fantastic views opened up as we climbed.
At the top, the view was amazing. In the far distance, to the right of this picture, we could just make out the three radio masts. Wow! Had we walked that far? It feels like we have walked completely around Cheltenham. Hang on – we have!
Time for a selfie with Cheltenham.

From Leckhampton Hill, we headed down to Ullenwood. There is a cafe there at a school for the disabled, and we were disappointed it was closed because of the bank holiday.

Ullenwood also marked our 11 mile mark, and our original plan. We could try to call for a taxi, or walk a couple of miles to catch a bus from Shurdington. Or, keep going. Cooper’s Hill is on the Way and close to a bus route that was operating. An optimistic estimate put it at 5 miles away, so we thought we’d keep going. Once again, the views opened up magnificently. Then, we were treated with some baby Oreo cows! Yes, I know I should call them Belted Galloways that are especially good for chocolate milk….

I hesitate to put in another photo of the fantastic view. I know the photos all look the same, but it is this varying view of Cheltenham which makes this stretch of the walk so great. Photos fail to do it justice.
Guess the cow type!

At the top of the hill was the Crickley Hill cafe. We sat down and realized that it had been a mistake to carry on. The cold might have been getting to us, and perhaps lunch was not sitting well. Or perhaps 13 miles is just enough. Also, it seemed that it was still five miles to Cooper’s Hill! While our guidebook shows Crickley Hill has a bus stop, we could not find any service. However, Shurdington has buses to Cheltenham every twenty minutes, so we went for that. The map showed the Gloucestershire Way went that way, but it was a lot less developed than the Cotswold Way. We walked about two miles to the bus stop and were soon on our way back to Cheltenham.

This sign board confirmed it was the town of Shurdington below us.
It was time to leave the Cotswold Way for the day.
While the Gloucestershire away might have a shiny new sign, the trail was not the easiest to follow.

Today’s relive:

Today’s stats:

I love that the map shows how we walked around Cheltenham. That made this a truly great day. 15.3 miles was long and we need to be more conservative in future. While we climbed 1600 ft, we dropped 2400 ft as we started high, and downhill can be more tiring. We hiked for 6.5 hours. It was great to start early and get so many miles behind us in the morning, but I think it gave a false sense of remaining energy which caught us out. I am sure we will be ready for more tomorrow after a good night’s sleep. We just need to decide where!

Published by Peter Ireland

"Cajunlimeys" combines Lousiana (Janet) and England (Peter). For "limeys," check out scurvy in the English navy. We love adventures and use blogging to write a photo diary to preserve our memories. Some crazy friends enjoy following us and my notes might help others plan.

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