The Cotswold Way Day 2: Toddington to Winchcombe via Belas Knap

Today was made more exciting with my friend James joining us. Our last hike together was last century in Ecuador, so it was good to catch up! We started the day with the bus from Cheltenham to Toddington. I’m liking how close our apartment is to the bus stops! It was a smooth, uneventful ~1 hour ride, and we were hiking by 10 am.

The day started at the bridge over Toddington Railway Station

To avoid repeating yesterday’s near-death experiences walking along a narrow main road, I found a set of paths that met up with the Cotswold Way a bit south of where we had left it. The paths followed the railway line at first, and we were treated to a steam train passing by, though the engine was the wrong way around!

It’s going backwards!
The engine still looked, and sounded, grand.

It took about an hour of walking to rejoin the Cotswold Way, but it was a pleasant change from yesterday.

The array of signs can be confusing, so it is handy to have the OS Map app on your phone. Without realizing, we were following one of the circular walks associated with the Cotswold Way.
The terrain was different as we were on the flat rather than in the hills. It looked like this field was growing some trial crops, but we could not identify them.
We passed by Hailes Abbey, a Cistercian Abbey which dates back to 1246.

We enjoyed some fine views of Winchcombe as we approached and entered it, but were not overly impressed by the town. That it is a “town” rather than a village might have made the difference. It was formerly the capital of Mercia and has links to King Ethelred from the 10th century.

Our approach to Winchcombe
Winchcombe had the classic Cotswold feel as we entered, but it was too much like a town.
Nice views
Interesting history
The view back towards Winchcombe as we left.

While the town was a little underwhelming, we enjoyed some tea, scone, and cake at a quirky tea room that was in the back of an antique shop which had the most marvelous garden. Unfortunately, the garden meant many wasps were attracted to our scone’s jam, but they stayed away from us.

The tearoom is back there, through a maze of antiques.
We enjoyed their lovely garden.

Winchcombe was our planned end-point for today and starting point tomorrow. However, as we had walked only four miles, we decided to add on a loop up to Belas Knap Longbarrow. As we left Winchcombe, we were interested in looking at Sudeley Castle. We made it to the entrance to the grounds, but gave up as it was going to be a long walk out of our way, and we wouldn’t see much without paying a high entrance fee. It’s more of a stately home than a castle.

Sudeley Castle has a fine entrance.
We had fine views of the castle from across the valley as we climbed the hill.
We just missed a local cricket game, but I don’t think they got to play much before the rain.

It was a long climb up the hill to Belas Knap. it is a mound, known as a longbarrow, believed to have been used as a burial ground around 3000 BC. Entrances have been restored. While there wasn’t much to see, it was a suitable turning point for our walk back down the hill to Winchcombe.

Our selfie from on top of the barrow. Those clouds look menacing…
An entrance into the longbarrow.
The restoration

We had been dodging rain clouds all day. While our luck finally ran out, we still had some as the rain came while we were walking in the woods, which helped prevent us getting too wet.

The rain came as we headed downhill through the woods. Our waterproofs did their job and kept us dry.

The final mile was through farmland with various obstacles.

I was worried that Mr Bull was thinking “you shall not pass!” Fortunately, he just let us stroll by.
These sheep took a liking to our path.
We passed through a field with this one lone sheep. As we approached this gate, he head butted it. It seemed his clan were on the other side, so we tried to help him get back.
He leapt for joy when he was back with “his sheep.”
After an 11 mile day, I need a back rub like this!

We made it to the bus stop with about 10 minutes to spare, though there is an hourly service from Winchcombe to Cheltenham. We were happy to get back earlier today at about 4pm. While in our room, it started raining heavily which we enjoyed listening to under our glass ceiling.

Looking skyward from our bed. The rain made it perfect post-hike napping weather.

Today’s Relive Videos:
First Half: https://www.relive.cc/view/vdvmXerpjxq
Second Half: https://www.relive.cc/view/veqzoR2RPBv

Today’s stats:

Part 1
Part 2

I accidentally stopped my watch in Winchcombe, and missed some of our walking. Today was about 11 miles with 1150ft of climbing with a little under 5 hours of walking. It was another fine day, made even better with James joining us and without the weather spoiling it.

Published by Peter Ireland

"Cajunlimeys" combines Lousiana (Janet) and England (Peter). For "limeys," check out scurvy in the English navy. We love adventures and use blogging to write a photo diary to preserve our memories. Some crazy friends enjoy following us and my notes might help others plan.

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