The Cotswold Way Day 1: Chipping Campden to Toddington

Hang on. Toddington isn’t on the Cotswold Way. But it’s close and it was a fine end to our first day’s walk.

Today’s challenge was logistics. The first challenge was getting the twenty miles from Cheltenham to the start of the Cotswold Way, and then back to Cheltenham after a day’s walk. While there was one bus in the morning, it took two hours on a very winding route, and we didn’t fancy a late start feeling car sick. I’m nervous when I start a trek, so we took the easy option of a taxi. I booked it last night with Starline Taxis, after a couple of other firms were booked up. While waiting for it outside our apartment, we learned the Strozzi Palace service apartments are built in what used to be an electricity substation.

We are staying in a former electricity substation, that ran with a weird voltage
Our roof is on the top floor behind the curtains. We have a glass ceiling!

Our taxi driver was Jan who moved here from Afghanistan in 2006, having been an interpreter. His wife and young son have returned and he is looking forward to following them soon. We had a great chat for the 45 minute / 46 GBP ($60) ride and were dropped off right in the middle of the charming village. After a quick visit to the local facilities, we were ready to go!

The inlaid stone marking the beginning of the trail
We will get about 1/2 way to Bath with our five days of walking
This is what the first few hundred yards of the walk look like. An idyllic Cotswold village.

We were soon out of the village and climbing our first hill, which meant the views opened up. It was a beautiful day and the views did not disappoint. I fear the photos, even Apple’s fancy panoramic ones, don’t come close to capturing them well. It was great to be walking along the edge of fields and saying hi to sheep again.

Onward we go. For this first section of the walk, the path is quite well signposted. Well, it is when you are on the correct trail. There are no signs on the wrong trails telling you are wrong. Fortunately, we did not find ourselves off the path today. This might have had something to do with Janet navigating!
Our first view of many off the escarpment. This one is from Dover Hill, but this type of view was common today.
We will try to avoid disturbing you as we walk past
Skirting a field. Janet leads the way!
I like signs that show you where you are, though Janet didn’t need it

The main landmark on this section of the walk is the Broadway Tower, and 18th-century folly. It came into view as we walked along the top of the escarpment, and it brought a lot more walkers. It was a good place to stop for lunch. The steep descent into Broadway was not an issue and we were soon back in another picturesque Cotswolds village.

A panorama of the view as we approach Broadway Tower
A finely-built drystone wall as we approach the tower
The tower up close
We enjoyed this fine view of Broadway village while we enjoyed our lunch

While there were several shops in Broadway, we didn’t need anything and just kept going. The path climbed gently for a while, allowing us to enjoy blackberries, sheep, cows, and wildflowers.

Our view of Broadway as we entered the village
Many, massive patches of blackberries meant we did not need as many snacks
I have been politely informed (you know who you are) that these are Belted Galloway. Calling them Oreo Cows is so unBritish. I guess I am losing my roots, and Oreos are not even my favorite cookie biscuit
These brushes puzzled us as they are too high for the sheep. Perhaps a wandering cow likes a back scratch?
These wild poppies prompted a drink stop
The navigator in action! And before anyone makes a rude comment, the book is upside down to orient the map correctly.

After about 10 miles, we started a steep descent into Stanton. This was hard on the legs at the end of our first day, but we just took it slowly. This brought us into another fine picturesque village.

A beautiful thatched cottage in Stanton
Another thatched roof
This took me back to my childhood, leaving empty milk bottles and the number of pints you want the next day, with a note for the milkman. I didn’t think anyone still did this!

We were in Stanton about 3pm and the bus to Cheltenham was a bit before 6pm. We discovered the bus does not stop in Stanton itself, but on the main road about a mile away. It was two miles to Toddington, about a mile on the Cotswold Way and then a mile along a B road. With a pub and a bus stop, Toddington was calling us, but the walk along the B road was rather hair-raising, with little to no space for walking and cars whizzing past when large farm machinery wasn’t passing by. We will aim to avoid that road when we return to start tomorrow! After a two hour wait, the bus arrived on time and it was a smooth one-hour ride back to Cheltenham, where we met up with an old friend who will be joining us tomorrow.

Next to the pub, I was treated with this post box. The ER VII shows it was made during the reign of King Edward VII, who ruled from 1901-1910 after his mother, Queen Victoria
Our well-decorated bus stop
The bus arrived only a couple of minutes late. I never had any doubts!
The bus journey was interesting when we drove along narrow roads, like this one, at 50 mph and it is not one-way!

Today’s Relive video: https://www.relive.cc/view/vMq5eYrVr8q

Today’s stats:

The first day’s route

13.4 miles with 1575 ft ascent over 5.5 hrs of walking time. If felt good, but this was just the first day. We travelled a bit further than planned, and need to avoid the B road tomorrow. Let’s hope the weather remains like this!

Published by Peter Ireland

"Cajunlimeys" combines Lousiana (Janet) and England (Peter). For "limeys," check out scurvy in the English navy. We love adventures and use blogging to write a photo diary to preserve our memories. Some crazy friends enjoy following us and my notes might help others plan.

2 thoughts on “The Cotswold Way Day 1: Chipping Campden to Toddington

  1. Have loved reading your travels, this year to 2 places we love: Oahu and the Cotswolds. Glad you’re doing the walking! Thanks for sharing!

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