Big Bend in 2016 With a Pre-Teen

Now for my third visit to West Texas. After an awe-inspiring summitting of Guadalupe Peak, Samuel and I were ready for our next challenge. Spring Break 2016 gave us the opportunity to head back to the desert while the girls did a trip to New York. Each of us were very happy with our trips! Recognizing that Samuel was only eleven and my wilderness experience remained low, I didn’t want to be too ambitious. Also, as I still had not embraced filtering water and the National Park website stressed the uncertainty of the spring water in the Chisos Mountains (more on that in later blogs when we relied on it), our backcountry hiking was limited to how many days of water we could carry, which translated into how much I could carry as Samuel was still small. So, we planned for three nights in the Chisos (one in the basin and two in the mountains), one-night remote car-camping, an overnight hike to the river, and a two-day one-night canoeing trip with an outfitter.

This trip doubled the length of our previous backcountry adventure, with good exposure to day and night hiking in the desert. I learned that carrying water is definitely a limiting factor, was amazed at the energy of an eleven-year-old, but also that when that energy runs out, it is like hitting a wall! While this was a steppingstone to bigger trips like the Outer Mountain Loop, the trip itself was still an epic experience for a father and son, especially enabling Samuel’s joy.

A map of our various destinations, also highlighting the lack of roads in Big Bend!

Activity #1: Camping in the Chisos Mountains

My research had shown that the South Rim of the Chisos Mountains was a highlight of the park. This is also close to the location of the park’s highest point, Emory Peak, which wasn’t identified as a highlight, but we still had to climb it! Our previous trip to Guadalupe Peak had taught us to expect hot days and cold nights so we tried to be prepared.

Our first night, after the long drive from Houston, was camping in the Chisos Basin. It is a functional car-camping campground that fills up and needs early reservations, especially during busy times like Spring Break. Most importantly, it is close to the mountains. Its other redeeming feature is its proximity to the Chisos Mountains Lodge, which has a restaurant, and the permit station at the Chisos Basin Visitor Center.

The lodge has a great restaurant! The thought of dehydrated backpacking meals makes you hungry for better things.

One of the advertised views and trails in the Chisos Basin is the Window View or the Window Trail. We did neither on this trip and haven’t on future trips. Much of our enjoyment comes from getting away from the crowds, which often means hiking to places that the vast majority of people are unable or unwilling to. We are happy to help anyone else get to such places!

The following morning, we could not need to start at the crack of dawn as we had to pick up our permit, but we were at the trailhead soon, ready to go.

I remained aware of the risk of mountain lions, but research had shown that they were rare, and any attacks were even rarer and often provoked.
This photo shows Samuel’s gear nicely. His sleeping mat was a $10 special from Academy, which was fine for his size and weight. He used a junior backpack (Osprey Ace 50). At this point, we were still drinking from a bladder, but have moved to bottles which are easier to fill and show you how much you are drinking. Non-cotton long sleeves and pants are the best against sun, insects, and sharp plants, even in hot weather. Samuel loved this hat, but when it was lost, has generally not worn one (not recommended!). The red thing is an emergency whistle. We shared a pair of hiking poles, but now use a pair each as they reduce the force on the knees and feet during descents. We were also still hiking in heavy boots, eventually replaced with lightweight trail runners in future trips.

At the trailhead. The Chisos Mountains plateau and Emory Peak are in the background. We were hiking in via the Pinnacles Trail with destinations of Emory Peak and the South Rim Loop. The warning about the fire danger is real, as we found out in 2021 when we visited immediately after the area was reopened after a significant fire, and we even found some wood still smoldering.
This also shows my gear. I’m using the Osprey Aether 60 backpack. We used the entry-level REI backpacking tent Camp Dome 2 which was a heavy five pounds, very strong, but without vestibules. I used a Samsung automatic camera, and my belly was too big! I was trying some US-made lightweight hiking pants which ripped and I have since reverted to my favorite Craghoppers pants from the UK which, even though they are a polyester/cotton blend, they are water-repellant and quick drying and stronger than the non-cotton pants I have seen. I’ve even been able to buy extra pairs while in the US. I’m still in heavy boots at this point too!

The NPS Chisos Mountains Backpacking Trails Map. We initially camped at the Chisos Basin campground which is at the top of the map, near the lodge (for food) and the Visitor Center (for permits). We hiked in along the Pinnacles Trail, which gets very steep with switchbacks between PI1 and TM1 campsites. We camped two nights at BC2 in Boot Canyon, with a composting toilet close by. We hiked to Emory Peak a couple of times and to the East Rim and the South Rim. The South Rim between ER3 and ER9 is closed between Feb 1 and May 31 each year to protect nesting peregrine falcons, so was closed during this trip. There are still great views from the accessible parts of the South Rim, but it prevents the loop hike. The blue dot is the seasonal Boot Spring which we did not use on this trip. The Lost Mine Trail and Casa Grande Peak, in the top right of the map, are where we hiked after the Chisos.

The hike into the mountains is a climb but is OK when it is not too hot, and you take it easy. We were taking it easy and made it to our campsite in Boot Canyon without incident.

Yummy Red Beans and Rice for an early dinner. Samuel’s appetite was such that we could share one of these meals. As his appetite has grown, we’ve added Raman noodles to dinner, cooking it in the same pouch. Samuel wearing gloves suggests it is very cold, but his hands have always suffered from the cold!

Even after a tough hike to the campground, Samuel was eager to hike up to Emory Peak.

Samuel on Emory Peak. There is a radio mast on the top as well.
To get to the peak, there is a tough class-3 scramble over the final stretch after an otherwise easy trail.

After our incident getting lost coming down off Guadalupe Peak, I was a little concerned about staying up here after sunset, so we headed down before it was dark.

The view across Chisos Basin to Casa Grande from just below Emory Peak and just before sunset.

The following morning when I am fixing breakfast, I hear something in the trees above me!

We walked along the East Rim. Another father and son were hiking, and we took photos of each other.

After a bit of backtracking because of the trail closure, we made it to the South Rim. Wow!

The view from the South Rim across the National Park to Mexico. It’s a special trip for a father and son.
We have returned to this view several times, and it only changes in how the sun lights it. Such remote locations are special.

That evening, we went back up Emory Peak. We met a couple of guys on the top who offered us some summer sausage which was absolutely delicious. We have since bought some, but it has never been nearly as good as on Emory Peak!

The view from the peak with the lodge and campground in the middle of the basin and Casa Grande, which we climbed the following day, on the right. The shadows are lengthening as the sun sets.

The nights were cold. The photo shows Samuel bundled in his upgraded REI Igneo sleeping bag with water-repellant down. The wind gets surprisingly strong in the Chisos mountains at night, and we had to go searching in the morning for the tent bag that had blown away!

The next morning, after two nights camping in Boot Canyon, it was time to hike out. As I recall, I had carried in much too much water and dumped a gallon before hiking out. The temperatures had not been high so we hadn’t drunk as much as expected, but it’s better to be safe when there is uncertainty. I was learning that filtering rather than carrying will save a lot of effort! I have also learned that having an older teenager means that he can carry most of the weight!

Activity #2: Hiking Casa Grande and Geocaching

Once back at the car, we drove to the trailhead for the Lost Mine Trail. We got one of the last parking places and joined crowds walking this popular trail. However, having walked to the end, we eyed our target: Casa Grande (= big house in Spanish).

There isn’t an established trail to the peak. However, there is a virtual geocache on the summit which provided good background information and proved that there was a way up! We met one other group as we traversed the ridge, but it was otherwise deserted.

Some scrambling up scree is necessary to get to the peak.

Samuel hit his first “wall.” I admit that I had underestimated how long it would take us to hike Casa Grande, and the associated effort. Fortunately, I had some emergency rations which gave him an essential boost.

The views from the top were fantastic. However, the wind was very strong, and I insisted Samuel either sit down, or that I hold onto him! He was happy to be on the top.

On the way back down, the scree was a bit easier when you realized you could just slide. However, this is where my hiking pants did not fare so well….

We headed to Rio Grande Village to get a few provisions, including summer sausage, but first we had to visit a ranger!

Activity #3: Junior Ranger

Samuel had to get his Junior Ranger badge. This picture shows him wearing the vest which he pinned his badges to.

Bailey and Samuel had completed many Junior Ranger badges at National Parks in our family travels. Their achievement is still recognized on the Petrified Forest National Park’s website:

Our photo was taken during our visit in 2014. Check it out at https://www.nps.gov/pefo/learn/kidsyouth/beajuniorranger.htm.

Activity #4: Remote Car Camping

Next, we headed out onto the dirt roads to get to our roadside Talley #2 campsite for the night. The site was close to the river and truly felt like we were in the middle of nowhere.

A relaxed start the following morning, after a night full of stars! We made the most of car camping with luxuries like a table and chairs.

Watching some of the wildlife in the distant trees.

Activity #5: Hiking Marisco Canyon Rim Trail

Next up – another hike. As we had been in the mountains, we had got used to cooler temperatures, and were not ready for the increased temperatures on the plains.

The trailhead for our next hike to the Mariscal Canyon Rim. It already looks hot!

The map shows Mariscal Canyon. The trailhead is the “P” on the left of the picture, and the trail is the dotted red line. The contours at the end of the trail show the steepness of the canyon walls.

The terrain made us think of “The Book of Eli,” a post-apocalyptic movie that we had recently watched. And the multiple days of camping made me think of Eli’s quote “You know the only good thing about no soap… is that you can smell hijackers a mile off!”

The canyon! Samuel is somewhere over there, but as you can’t find him, the photo doesn’t really work. Impressive canyon though!

The Rio Grande on the way back to the car. But we were both suffering from the heat.

Back in air conditioning. And summer sausage!

We passed some old mine workings. Long abandoned, they were fun to explore.

Activity #6: A Night Hike with Camping

We had booked a night at the Rio Grande Village campground, but we came up with the alternative of hiking the Marufo Vega Trail. It went down to the river in a different part of the park and would involve a single night of backcountry “open ” camping as there weren’t established campsites. After the heat, we decided it would be best to hike at night.

As the sun set and it darkened, the stars came out. As the path became less visible, we relied more on the stars to navigate, which was very cool. At one point, we heard some commotion off the path and wondered whether it was some animal. We realized it was a tent, and the occupant appeared quite angry, as he thought we were a bear!

It was on this hike that Samuel hit another wall. It had been quite amazing how he had kept going with all of the hiking and the heat. We were unsure where we would camp and had decided we would stop when we saw a good spot or felt like stopping. The lack of plan was unwise, and we walked on until Samuel suddenly realized he had had enough. There was a shallow ravine just off the path, and we managed to clear enough dead vegetation to make room for a tent. It was far from ideal but it worked.

Our tent at the bottom of a ravine, amongst the bushes.

The next morning, we were both surprisingly well rested!

We took the first of what has become a traditional silhouette photo when hiking.

We passed one other group on the trail and they took our photo.

Having walked out, we were very happy to be in the car’s air-conditioning and our drive to Terlingua on the other side of the park. The roadside had large patches of bluebonnets, and I remembered them from my visit with Janet, so I had to get them with Samuel!

The hotel room at the Big Bend Motor Lodge was basic, but to us it was luxury. We could bathe! We washed all of our clothes in the bath, and while they weren’t exactly clean, they smelt less for the next leg of our adventure.

Activity #7: Canoeing the Rio Grande

The following morning, after great sleep, we headed to Big Bend River Tours for our next adventure – an overnight canoeing trip down the Rio Grande.

The river levels were low, so the river guides took us to a stretch of river on the far side of the park, putting in at Heath Creek. While outside of Big Bend National Park, the Rio Grande is still protected as a National Wild and Scenic River.

I had to float the canoe down these rapids as the guides felt the risk of tipping in was too high. Other people in the group had already capsized.

This was our campsite for the night. Very cool location, but Samuel and I quickly realized how much we preferred independent travel rather than with a group. In contrast to backpacking, other members of the group had spent the previous days at the local country club. We wanted adventure!

One advantage of the river guides is the food. I have to say this beats dehydrated meals. Indeed, I think cooking skills are more important than knowledge of the river. Fixing great food in the back country is something I have not learned how to do yet.

The following morning, we were off again for a short distance down the river so that we could take the canoes out at La Linda. It had been interesting paddling along the US/Mexico border, in such a way that we were going back and forth along the border.

We were probably standing in Mexico for this lunch break.

You always have to do a duck impression when eating Pringles!

On arrival at the end point, we had a bit of time to kill as the transport had not arrived yet. The kids had some fun rocking the boat. However, it ended in tragedy!

Samuel is the second person from the right edge. You can probably recognize the distinctive hat. I insisted he wear it as sun protection. Unfortunately, seconds after this photo was taken, the boat went over, and Samuel went under water. Not a big deal, except his hat stayed underwater when he came up again, and we never saw it again. Samuel was devastated! Granted, he was already exhausted after a very full week.

And that was the canoeing trip and the end of our planned activities. After heading back to Terlingua with the boats, we went to check back into our hotel. Without knowing they were in Big Bend, we bumped into the family who lived next door to us, who were hunting fossils! We quickly learned that there had been a mess up with their hotel reservation. As Samuel and I had both a room and a tent, and there was space in the campground attached to the hotel, they took our room. We also made the most of the time and headed back down to the Santa Elena Canyon. We quickly realized why we had not canoed here – the water was too shallow, but it was great for the kids to find skimming rocks. It also helped Samuel forget that he had lost his hat!

The Finale: Santa Elena Canyon

We were back at the place where Janet and I finished our canoeing trip nearly twenty years previously.

Walking to Mexico in the dark while looking for good skimming rocks.

And that was the end of our Big Bend adventure. Well, nearly the end. There is just the minor details of a ten-hour drive home. First, as you leave Big Bend, you pass through a customs check. I have previous experience of increased attention and delays when a customs officer hears my foreign accent so I tried to keep my mouth shut. I am sure some odors left the car when I opened the window for the customs officer. We got through the first challenge without issue. The second challenge was a certain traffic cop, who was very nice. We just wanted to get home and I was making the most of the 85-mph speed limit on I-10. When we were stopped for going perhaps a little over this, the cop politely reminded me that 85 meant 85… Finally, the real challenge hit me – fatigue. I was falling asleep so we stopped at a rest stop so I could have a nap. I might even have done it a couple of times! But thankfully, we made it home without me driving off the road.

We got home and were so happy that Janet and Bailey had also had a fantastic time in New York watching shows and going backstage and other fun things. For Samuel and me, it had been an epic trip and cemented our desires to pursue adventure independently. I’m still amazed at how much we got done. Each part of this trip was so memorable. Also, I had seen the possibilities that filtering water would open up, and I had seen a few references to the “Outer Mountain Loop.” This sounded like a big challenge, but it might be possible. And then a colleague at work, Tim Long, told me about doing it with his son several years earlier, and I knew it had to be. So, twenty-one months later, we were back!

If you have any questions about our adventures in Big Bend, don’t hesitate to leave a comment below, but remember to include your email address!

To read about our other adventures in West Texas, go to our West Texas page.