Big Bend National Park and More in 1999

This is the first of several posts that describe our multiple exciting adventures in West Texas. I start with our first trip in March 1999. Janet and I had been married for barely a year and Big Bend had caught our eye. We planned a combination of independent exploration and activities with outfitters.

While it was a 600-mile drive from Houston to our hotel in Terlingua, it is an easy drive along I-10 most of the way. It reminded me how Texas is 3x the size of Britain! We stayed overnight in Terlingua at the Big Bend Motor Inn before checking in with Big Bend River Tours for our multi-activity adventure.

The first “leg” was half a day of horseback riding with Lajitas stables.

Our vivid memory from that morning was unfortunately the soreness from being in a saddle for four hours. After lunch, we were able to walk around and explore independently, which we have learnt is our preference. The saddle soreness wore off fairly quickly, and the desert sun wasn’t too hot.

A mesa beyond the Lajitas Golf Resort

Our first trip to the Texan desert revealed a beautiful variety of cactus, fighting to survive in the dry rocky landscape.

We found evidence of previous inhabitants, from stone huts to petrographs.

A highlight was watching the colors change over the Rio Grande as the sun set.

For that night, we had chosen the adventurous (and cheaper option) of camping by the river. We were less keen when we discovered the tent was in a field used by horses. I was able to clear manure away from enough ground to set up our sleeping bags!

We had been excited by the idea of sleeping by the river, within a stone’s through of Mexico.
Needing to clear the horse manure diminished the excitement!

I’m sure we didn’t have the best night’s sleep, but ready or not, the next day was the start of our two-day paddle down the river. We headed back to the outfitter. The low water level, which I believe is normal, meant we were paddling canoes rather than rafting. We put into the river close to the outfitter in Lajitas, ready to paddle through Santa Elena Canyon.

The first day, we shared a canoe, and it was pretty chill.
The locals enjoyed basking but were a bit timid.
Our river guides cooked great meals. However, we have realized that having guides is “not our thing” and we prefer to be independent when possible.
We slept the one night under the stars on a sand bank by the river called “Entrance Camp,” just before entering Santa Elena canyon. I’m unsure how happy Janet was, worrying what mammal might come up to her in the dark!
The disposable waterproof camera was not the best, but that is Janet paddling! We switched to single canoes for the second day.
Looking back into Santa Elena Canyon.

After the trip on the river, we had fun exploring some more of the national park.

Lots of cactus.
The deer know how to avoid the cactus.
Don’t drive on me please!
You probably don’t want to drive on this either….
We were surprised by the bluebonnets in the park. However, Janet does not look surprised at how long it is taking me to take this photograph. This is one of several good reasons why I don’t do portrait photography!
This was a bit worrying. However, I did return with Samuel when he was 10 years old. We were ready to shout aggressively and wave arms!
The large yuccas are impressive.
People used to live out here.
The Rio Grande, which is not very grande….

We headed out of Big Bend but took a roundabout route visiting a few other places on the way back home.

Probably not the safest place to park.
We saw a few road runners cross the road in front of us, but they were difficult to photograph. I might have said “beep beep” a few times.
We headed to the McDonald Observatory in the Davis Mountains. The scientist is explaining that this is a very big telescope!
We returned that evening to look at the stars which was a lot of fun, and the t-shirt survives twenty-five years later!
West Texas landscape for many miles.
The tiny settlement of Langtry was the seat of Judge Roy Bean from the days of the Wild West, who named the town and his bar/courthouse after his hero, Lily Langtry.
We stayed at the Landmark Inn which is run by the State Parks as it is so old. Coming from England, “old” was kinda relative….
Our route.

This was one of our first big road trips and was a lot of fun, except for the pollen triggering allergies. I had no idea that I would be back so often!

To read about our other adventures in West Texas, go to our West Texas page.

Published by Peter Ireland

"Cajunlimeys" combines Lousiana (Janet) and England (Peter). For "limeys," check out scurvy in the English navy. We love adventures and use blogging to write a photo diary to preserve our memories. Some crazy friends enjoy following us and my notes might help others plan.

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